Have thighs, will travel

We have just completed our first foray into the Alps. Since the last update we have covered so much interesting territory that only a very cursory rundown will leave this page below book length.

Our warm up for the Alps was a 1200m pass over the Appenines. From there we descended into Modena, the home of balsamic vinegar. We are now the proud owners of a bottle of 12-year-old, farm house attic matured, Aceto Balsamico di Modena.

Next was the Po River flats - 3 days of boring and blistering hot biking. But it was all worth it as Venice was the reward. Upon arrival Claudia was too excited to swallow her pizza and was sweating so much (from the heat rather than excitement) she declared herself capable of being a salt lick for a deer herd. We spent 3 days here walking mile upon mile through the labyrinth of alleyways that make up the city. Every turn was a picture perfect scene of little bridges spanning canals, gondoliers in stripey shirts punting their way between crumbling yet still regal looking buildings, or a square full of tourists literally covered in pigeons.

We headed up the St Marks Basilica Bell Tower for the only view of the 117 islands that the city covers. Orange rooves crammed onto every available space and surprisingly no canals visible from up here. We were rather taken aback when the bells hanging 5 feet above our heads started slamming their way deafeningly through some 6.30pm Ode to Brass and stood with fingers in our ears as the world shook around us. Thoughts of how this tower spontaneously collapsed in 1902 and had to be rebuit brick by brick were never far away.

We also took a boat trip (9 actually) out to the lagoon islands of Murano (famous for its glass), Burano (lace), and Torcello (mosquitos). Burano was the favourite with tiny canals lined by multi-coloured houses of bright yellow, green, blue, pink etc.

Then it was time to hit the hills and we headed north into the Dolomites. The first pass was only 700m and was the most bizarre and amazing bit of road we've seen. It took 18 hairpins to curl up a cliff lined cirque in the pouring rain and thunder that has accompanied us since Venice. The top 7 corners were hewn straight into the rock face with each corner in a small tunnel connecting the ramps of road between. As we came out of the cloud on the other side the Dolomites proper reared up in front of us. Adjectives have not been penned to adequately describe these mountains. Not much on this trip has rivalled NZ scenery but these go beyond. So for 2 days we have been marvelling at massive spires of rock (and Claudia's muscley thighs) towering in all directions around us.

We had to work for it though. The Passo di San Pellegrino took us up to 1918m (remembering Venice is on the sea!), with the steepest sections at 18%. The pros in the Giro di Italia flit up here on their 6.7kg racing bikes, but with 12kg of pannier alone clinging to your rear it was brutual. Immediately after this was a 1750m pass where the thunder and hail rolled in. We got a respite of sorts with 3km of underground through tunnels before bursting out into the heat again back at 200m in Bolzano.

Here it is like another country and you're more likely to hear a 'Gutten Tag' than a 'Ciao'. Signs are in German and a yodel seems dangerously imminent at all times. Last night we were pounded in our tent by another huge thunder storm, with puddles forming inside our vestibule. Now we are having a day off to let the legs recover and the gear dry out before a last push across the top of Italy into France.

Auf Weider-derci

C&D